The Ultimate Round-Trip: Long Train Rides, Short Churchill Stay

Tuesday, November 26th: A Rookie Mistake

Early morning at the Winnipeg train station, I boarded the long-haul train to Churchill without proper preparation—a classic rookie mistake. The train’s "dining options" turned out to be microwave meals and gas station snacks. With only my last piece of Norwegian chocolate as a backup, breakfast was far from gourmet. Pro tip: pack your own snacks for this journey!

The ride itself, however, was relaxing. With no WiFi or power outlets, it was a detox from the digital world. I spent the day writing, staring out the window, and letting the rhythmic train noises lull me to sleep.

Wednesday, November 27th: Exploring Thompson

After a late start to the day, the train stopped for a five-hour layover in Thompson, Manitoba. The town is a mix of locals and transient workers, giving it an interesting vibe. I walked into town, grabbing breakfast at Tim Hortons—doughnuts, a bagel, and a sandwich to stash for later.

Fun fact: Thompson is often called the "Hub of the North" and is a gateway to many remote northern communities, including Churchill.

Thursday, November 28th: First Steps in Churchill

The train rolled into Churchill an hour earlier than expected, around 8 a.m., catching me slightly off guard. Taylor, my Airbnb host, was waiting at the platform with a sign bearing my name—a warm welcome in the icy Arctic wind. Churchill is a small, isolated town where everything is within a 15-minute walk, yet it feels vast because of the tundra’s stark emptiness.

After dropping my bags at the Airbnb, I ventured out to explore. First stop? Breakfast at a local café, where I fueled up for a day of wandering. Churchill in late November is dark most of the time, with limited daylight hours. It was -10°C, but with the wind chill, it felt closer to -19°C. This icy chill cuts right through you, a reminder that I was far from the cozy comforts of southern Canada.

One of the first things Taylor told me was the town’s golden rule: Never lock your car or house. Why? In case someone needs to escape a polar bear. Although most bears have moved onto the ice by this time of year, a few stragglers linger, often scavenging near the garbage dump. It's not entirely safe to walk around at night, as polar bears are known to view humans as potential snacks.

After breakfast, I intended to visit the museum, but instead, I found myself succumbing to the tranquility of Churchill and dozing off in a quiet corner. It was a rare moment of peace in the Arctic stillness. When I woke up, I explored a bit more but missed my chance to visit the museum before it closed.

Instead, I treated myself to a burger and a local gin cocktail called “Northern Lights” at Ptarmigan, a cozy restaurant with a limited off-season menu. The drink was a perfect reflection of Churchill—refreshing, cold, and a bit mysterious. Afterward, I wandered into a bar but realized too late that the actual seating area was on the other side of a wall. My solo drink felt emblematic of Churchill’s quiet, tucked-away charm.

Friday, November 29th: Exploring Churchill's Arctic Charm

I woke up to the sound of absolute stillness—save for the wind, which seemed to be having its own party outside. Churchill is so quiet that even a soft breeze can feel like the loudest noise in town. Taylor had stopped by earlier to make breakfast, but I missed it entirely. Thankfully, he’d left hot dogs and potatoes for me, though I had to skip the eggs because of my allergies. Bread and jam rounded out my morning feast before I ventured out to explore.

My first stop of the day was the Itsanitaq Museum, a small but fascinating collection of Indigenous artifacts and Arctic history. While the museum itself wasn’t large, it offered a glimpse into the craftsmanship and culture of the Inuit people. There were beautifully carved soapstone sculptures, traditional tools, and clothing that showcased the ingenuity needed to thrive in such a harsh climate. I appreciated the effort to preserve and share this history, even if the museum wasn’t as expansive as I’d hoped.

After leaving the museum, I headed down to Main Street. There’s something charmingly practical about Churchill—it’s a place where the local store sells everything from groceries to snowmobiles, because of course, that’s a necessity here.

I stopped by a souvenir shop to browse but reminded myself that my light travel style doesn’t allow for much extra baggage.

Next, I visited the Churchill Visitor Centre at the train station. Although it was officially closed, the kind staff opened it up just for me. Inside, I found displays detailing Churchill’s unique history, from its role in Arctic exploration to its days as a military base during World War II. This town may be small, but its stories are vast.

For dinner, I returned to the Seaport Restaurant, where I enjoyed a hearty meal before heading to The Trader’s Table, a cozy spot for board games.

The evening was spent chatting and laughing with locals, a perfect way to connect with Churchill’s community spirit. When the place closed, I decided to swing by the Legion, a hub of social life in town.

As the night wound down, I learned another critical Churchill lesson: You’re not allowed to walk home alone at night. It’s not just about safety—it’s about polar bears. A local kindly gave me a ride, ensuring I didn’t become part of the Arctic food chain.

Saturday, November 30th: Farewell to Churchill

My final day in Churchill began with a relaxed morning. I packed up my things by 11 AM and moved to the Airbnb’s living room, where Taylor assured me I could stay as long as needed. He even offered to drive me into town later—yet another example of the incredible hospitality I’ve experienced here.

After a casual breakfast and a final load of laundry, I was ready to head downtown. True to his word, Taylor drove me to Main Street, where I made a quick stop at the store and then returned to the Seaport Restaurant for one last meal. Churchill may not have a huge culinary scene, but this spot had been a reliable favorite during my stay.

I stopped by The Trader’s Table, not for games this time but for a friendly chat. It was nice to reflect on my time here and connect with the locals one last time.

The train was set to leave at 8:30 PM, and Taylor, ever the gracious host, brought my bags down to the station an hour early. As I waited to board, the platform buzzed with travelers, many of whom had had their flights canceled due to weather. The train to Thompson was suddenly the only way out of town.

I managed to secure an upper berth for the journey back. While the thought of tumbling out of bed had me a bit nervous (stories of fellow travelers falling out were fresh in my mind), I strategically placed my bag on the outside edge to act as a barrier. It felt a bit like a trust exercise with gravity.

Once on board, I struck up a conversation with a few of my fellow passengers before settling into my berth. The rhythmic clatter of the train became my lullaby as I drifted off to sleep, leaving Churchill—and its stories—behind.

Sunday, December 1st: A Day of Unexpected Upgrades

The day started a little rough—I barely slept, perched on the edge of my upper berth, constantly aware of the possibility of falling. Despite this, I managed to grab a few hours of rest before the train reached Thompson in the morning.

Hoping for a hot meal, I tried to use a delivery app for pizza, but no luck. So, breakfast turned into a train classic: a pizza baguette. Let’s just say it wasn’t a culinary masterpiece. My honesty about its quality might have paid off, though. When I later ordered dinner, the staff kindly gave it to me for free.

As the train journeyed on, I was pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to my own private room. Having my own space was a treat after sharing the open sleeping car. The quiet, cozy quarters provided the perfect backdrop for a day of relaxation. I spent my time writing, watching the snowy landscape pass by, and savoring the rare privacy.

By the evening, I was fully immersed in the gentle rhythm of train travel. The steady clatter of the tracks lulled me into an early and peaceful sleep, a welcome reprieve after my edgy night in the berth.

Monday, December 2nd: Back to Winnipeg

After a solid night’s sleep in my upgraded room, I woke up feeling refreshed. The private cabin was quieter and far more comfortable than the berth, though I couldn’t help thinking the price difference wouldn’t justify it unless it was a free upgrade—lucky me!

I even managed to enjoy a hot shower on the train, which felt like a luxurious experience given the circumstances.

Breakfast came with a personal touch when one of the conductors made me a turkey sandwich. It was simple but thoughtful gestures like this that made the journey special.

The train rolled into Winnipeg around 7 PM, marking the end of my northern adventure. I had one final stop planned: Johnny Dee’s, a karaoke bar and restaurant I had scoped out earlier. It turned out to be the perfect way to cap off the trip.

I ordered a steak for dinner—though, as usual, I got slightly confused by the menu and accidentally ended up with just one side instead of the spread I had imagined. The food was good, but the company was even better. I met a lively group of karaoke enthusiasts who welcomed me into their fold. After a fun evening of singing and chatting, one of them kindly offered me a ride to the airport.

Arriving at the airport at 1:30 AM, I had plenty of time to kill before my early flight to Toronto at 5 AM.

The security checkpoint wasn’t even open yet, but it gave me a moment to reflect on the past week. From the quiet of Churchill to the camaraderie of karaoke, this journey had been a perfect mix of solitude, adventure, and connection.

Fun Facts for the Journey:

• The Train to Churchill: This iconic train ride spans over 1,700 kilometers (1,056 miles) from Winnipeg to Churchill, crossing prairies, boreal forests, and tundra. The journey takes approximately 48 hours, offering stunning views of Canada’s northern wilderness.
• Churchill’s Unique Charm: Known for its polar bears and beluga whales, Churchill is also a prime spot for viewing the northern lights, with over 300 nights of auroral activity per year.
• Seasonal shifts: By late November, most polar bears have moved onto the frozen Hudson Bay, but a few stragglers can still be spotted. This means nighttime walks remain off-limits.
• Tight-knit community: With a population of just under 1,000, Churchill’s warmth and hospitality are as much a hallmark as its frosty Arctic air.
• Known as the “Polar Bear Capital of the World”, Churchill is one of the few human settlements where polar bears outnumber people.
• The town sits along the western edge of Hudson Bay and is one of the best places to see the Northern Lights, visible up to 300 nights a year.
• During WWII, Churchill was a key military outpost due to its strategic location and deep-water port.

This trip was a mix of Arctic adventures, cozy moments, and new connections. Churchill, with its unique quirks and charm, left an indelible mark on me. Whether it’s dodging polar bears or marveling at the stark beauty of the north, this journey was unforgettable.

What’s Next? Follow along as I head to Toronto for new adventures! 🌟